Far from the buzz of High Street is an eatery, proof that the tastiest gourmet pleasures can be found in the smallest of places. On its Pakington Street perch, Ora has long lured destination-diners and savvy-locals with its push-the-breakfast-boundaries menu. The lunch fare is just as impressive.
Ora hasn’t faffed about with snazzy accouterments and lashings of trendy trappings. Here, the interior is simple: basic timber tables, Banksy-esque prints upholstering the white walls and a sprawling counter housing housebaked treats and coffee machine. With such a snug seating plan, it’s a given that others will crane their necks for a sticky-beak at your plate and there was a collective, ‘Ooooh,’ from our neighbours as our breakfasts were delivered from the kitchen. It was easy to understand sighs of breakfast jealousy when our choices were so good-looking.
From my experience, prawn toast has always been an indulgence plucked from the depths of a freezer and reheated in the oven. That doesn’t happen at Ora. Their spin includes velvety avocado, scattered superfood and more splashes of colour than a Jackson Pollock. A thick cut sourdough sliced, smeared with thin layer of pounded prawns, had been fried golden and crisp; one side coated in a blanket of toasted sesame seeds. Resting on one of the two wedges was a perfectly soft poached egg, garnished with a sprinkling of multi-hued quinoa; a lightly dressed cucumber, carrot and coriander salad sat to one side, offering plenty of crunch and bursts of flavour. A generous pooling of whipped avocado glued these elements to the plate. My expectations for Chinese takeaway have now been set astronomically high. Thanks Ora. On the plate was everything this hungry breakfaster could possibly want: sweet and salty, smooth and crunchy, rich and fresh, delicate and bold. If I could’ve eaten another serving, I would have.
Mother’s first mouthful of her tiffin egg gave way to a satisfied groan. Her plate was ticking the right boxes. The halves of one egg, enveloped in carrot and curry spices, were yolk up and dusted with crushed cashews. A tumbling jumble of potato hash peeked out from underneath; to one side was a splodge of unctuous kasundi. Everything on the plate worked in harmony. The curry crust on the egg was gentle and mild, reminding Mother of the days where she bought curry pouches from her favourite Indian grocer; Mother would’ve loved to have cracked into the egg at the table – the ultimate test in her book – but the flavour of the breakfast made up for her disappointment. A petite pile of just-pickled cauliflower florets were a surprising discovery, adding a welcome acidity to cut through the rich kasundi. It was the thick pickle that was the boxer on the plate, packing the most punch with spices that complemented those in the curry-coated egg. The only element Mother didn’t love was the Bombay hash: a mound of immaculately cut potato cubes that bulked up the plates offerings but didn’t offer much flavour.
In this years The Age Good Food Guide, Ora took out the gong for best food café. But don’t think that means coffee is neglected – it’s not. Helming Ora’s shiny, multi-grip machine and brewing siphons are former members of the Proud Mary crew. My café latte was sensational: strong and smooth and the perfect temperature. Mother wasn’t as impressed. Her long black – brewed from the Copacobana single origin – wasn’t to her taste. That blend had no guts and Mother likes guts.
Straight from the Mother We seem to have an uncanny knack of snagging the last table at an eatery and getting in before a stampede of other diners, who are then left to look on longingly as they wait for someone to vacate. That didn’t change at Ora: we had only just sat down before VOOSH and a cluster of people appeared at the door. My advice? Get here early. I loved the innovative menu and was tentative at the idea of having a curry and spice inspired dish for breakfast. Now? Consider me converted.
Ora
156 Pakington Street, Kew
(03) 9855 2002
Mother Says 