Sitting on a far-flung patch of Queens Parade, Mixed Business is not the easiest eatery to find – at least not for this navigationally-challenged mother and daughter (we drove past, twice). With it’s unique picket fence barriers, paved courtyard complete with lemon tree and cracking fare, Mixed Business offered us both an escape from the drizzle and a breakfast worthy of some serious boasting.
Open and airy, Mixed Business is kitted out in typical Fitzroy fashion; embracing a warehouse ramshackle aesthetic with communal tables flanked by church pews, whitewashed walls, pretty posies of bright blooms and a grand wooden work bench doubling as a coffee counter. Be warned: the chipped enamel placards promising ‘chips and gravy’ are purely decorative; look to the blackboards for specials. An impressive menu sees spice-studded porridge sit alongside apple pie waffles and coddled eggs; there are also poached eggs on Dench’s sourdough accompanied by a suite of pre-selected sides – smoked salmon, pickled beetroot, dill and crème fraiche ($17); pan-fried slow roasted pork belly, sweet and sour cabbage, and house mustard ($17.50).
It was from this list that I plucked my choice – poached eggs with potato and rosemary rosti, avocado and house relish ($16.5). A swift arrival cut short the hungry grumbling of my stomach and gave way to a watering mouth. Happily, I noted that Mixed Business shuns an emerging breakfast fad of only serving one slice of toast with their eggs – carbohydrates are important, don’t you know – and this made my plate seem – if possible – even more attractive. A pillow-like wedge of rosti was fluffy and peppered with hits of fragrant rosemary, and became the perfect vessel for sopping up pools of egg yolk. A lashing of avocado replaced butter and the homemade relish was a tart contrast to the richness of the rosti and eggs.
Looking down at her plate – roast mushrooms, goats cheese, hazelnuts, greens ($14.5) – mum explained, ‘This is my type of breakfast.’ Plump and juicy – just as they should be – the field mushrooms topped creamy chunks of fromage de chèvre and thick slices of multigrain toast. With a reputation for packing a potent punch, too much goats cheese can dominate a dish; too little and it’s a waste. A scattering of crushed hazelnuts provided a sweet, waxy crunch; the overstuffed handful of radicchio was slightly bitter, working well against the earthy fungi and bold cheese. There was nary a crumb left when mum had finished.
Straight from the Mother I’m looking forward to making Mixed Business a regular on my café rotation – now that I know where it is! Incredible breakfast, friendly staff and a homey atmosphere – it’s a winner. I have a sneaky suspicion it would be eardrum-bursting noisy on weekends – polished concrete floors and scraping chairs aren’t a good mix – so I would make a point of returning midweek. The blink-and-you’ll-miss-it florist next door is lovely, selling gorgeous bunches, seeds in paper pouches and petite glass bottles-come-vases.
Mixed Business
486 Queens Parade, Clifton Hill
(03) 9486 3068
Mother Says 