Sandwiched between Sydney Road and Grantham Street is a hidden treasure: Miss Marmalade. A revamped townhouse, this humdinger is cosy and welcoming; more like wandering into a friends’ house for a cuppa than a trendy Brunswick eatery. It’s not only uni students and in-the-know locals that haunt Miss Marmalade; it’s a hit with families too, thanks to the light and airy back room that brims with toys and books.
Miss Marmalade offers what many other Melbourne eateries don’t: a smile when you walk through a door and staff who actually look as though they’re happy to see you. The café’s fit-out is just as lovely. Think exposed brick walls, rustic-chic counters crafted from recycled wood, mismatched chairs and a blackboard-painted back wall complete with a window that peeps into the kitchen.
I blame my Miss Marmalade’s breakfast for inducing a serious case of gym-guilt that followed me around the rest of my day. A three buttermilk ricotta hotcakes were stacked smack-bang on the plate, swimming in a pale yellow lemon curd and topped with chunks of drunken pears and a quenelle of vanilla bean mascarpone. The hotcakes were heavenly; a beautifully buttery edge hid a cloud-soft and fluffy middle that became the base for a smattering of topping combinations. My favourite? All of them smushed on together, of course. Each of the toppings added something different and equally delicious. A pool of lemon curd was smooth and zingy; clumps of intensely rich chocolate crumb resembled crushed Oreos with extra oomph; the creamy mascarpone gently melted into the warm hotcakes; petite wedges of red-stained pears easily gave way to my fork and boasted the delicate flavours of wine, which lingered on the palate.
Mother opted for a more waistline-wary breakfast: green fritters – baby peas, broad bean, spinach, zucchini – with heirloom tomato salsa, balsamic glaze and sesame yoghurt. The choice of adding a half-serve of bacon proved too tempting for Mother to resist. A pile of vibrant, eye-popping colours, mouth-watering flavours and a jumble of textures, Mother was in raptures with her plate. The two fritters boasted a just-crisp edge and a pleasurably soft inside; the broad beans, in contrast to the mushed peas, offered a subtle chomp and something for Mother to sink her teeth into. There was a hint of heat from a spice or herb Mother couldn’t put her finger on. The salsa – tomato, Spanish onion, cucumber – had bursts of intense flavours and mingled wonderfully with the tangy, super creamy sour cream; drizzles of a sticky balsamic glaze was sweet and velvety but didn’t overtake the other elements. To Mother’s delight the bacon was just-charred, crispy and rendered; the perfect salty addition to balance the sweet fritters.
Coffee at Miss Marmalade is roasted by 5 Senses; tasting notes can be seen scrawled on a mirror hanging above the Synesso machine. My café latte was smooth and sat well on my palate despite the flavour being on the weaker side. Mother’s long black lacked strength and her sought-after robust punch; that didn’t stop her from declaring that she would definitely be returning – with or without her Daughter – to Miss Marmalade soon.
Straight from the Mother I love finding gems tucked away in suburban side streets away from the buzz of main drags. Because they don’t have the passing traffic, they often have to rely on fantastic fare and outstanding service. Miss Marmalade has these by the bucketload. With a warm, friendly and relaxed atmosphere, I would happily while away a few hours with friends at Miss Marmalade. My only teensy gripe was that there were no price tags on any of the cakes and muffins on display at the counter.
Miss Marmalade
126 Union Street, Brunswick
(03) 9388 8202
Mother Says 